Since moving back to Upstate NY, Colleen and I try to make regular trips through the Finger Lakes to look at the beautiful scenery. We try to hit new sites each time we take these trips and this Fall’s excursion was no different. This trip took us down the eastern side of Canandaigua Lake, across to Keuka Lake, and finally up the eastern side of Seneca Lake to return home. The weather was gorgeous and we had a beautiful, sunny autumn day for the drive.
Traveling down East Lake Road out of Canandaigua, we only caught fleeting glimpses of Canandaigua Lake. At some point, we need to take a longer tour of Canandaigua Lake but, Canandaigua Lake is not one of my favorite Finger Lakes. Most major points of interest lie either to the north or south of Canandaigua Lake although there are a few sites along the western side, as well. Personally, I prefer Keuka or Cayuga Lake and — up until this trip — I did enjoy Seneca Lake, as well (more on that in a bit).
Our first stop on the trip was at Keuka Brewing Company near Hammondsport NY. I’d had the pleasure to meet the owner, Rich Musso, the previous weekend at Custom Brewcrafter’s Autumn Festival of Ales and wanted to stop by their brewery and tasting room. Nestled on a hill overlooking the lake, Keuka Brewing Company “offers your palate a pleasant break from the standard tasting’s on the Keuka Lake Wine Trail.” A couple of their beers are contract brewed by Custom Brewcrafters but they also brew beer in-house. Their Harvest Ale had a nice, lightly malty, hoppy flavor and is brewed with locally-grown Nugget hops. But, what I really wanted to try was their Habañero Ale that I’d been told about at the Festival of Ales. Now, I’ve tried other beers brewed with hot peppers before but this brew packs a wallop!! Before tasting the beer there is a sweet, slightly vegetal nose while the underlying flavor of the beer has an initial, malty sweetness…unfortunately, all of that is completely over-powered by the intense heat that creeps up and kicks you in the groin. I really enjoy spicy foods but have to offer a word of caution to anyone trying this beer. Be careful!
After leaving Keuka Brewing, we drove down to the Hammondsport, NY and had lunch at the Village Tavern Restaurant & Inn. Even though we arrived around 11:30am, the restaurant was already packed and we decided to sit outside on their side porch. The food was wonderful (especially their German potato salad) and the beer and wine selection is almost overwhelming. If you’re looking for a nice, leisurely drive and a good restaurant, I’d definitely recommend a visit. Hammondsport is a quaint little village nestled at the foot of Keuka Lake so, after lunch, we also took the opportunity to walk around the town square before setting off again.
Leaving Hammondsport, we traveled between Waneta and Lamoka Lake to Watkins Glen. Normally, when we visit Watkins Glen we’re either going to the state park or for lunch at the Crooked Rooster and Wildflower Café but, since we’d just eaten, we passed through Watkins Glen on our way to a decision: head north along the eastern side of Seneca Lake or cut over to Cayuga Lake and Ithaca. In hindsight, Colleen was right and we should have gone to Ithaca but, at the time, I was excited to get to Two Goats Brewing and try out their beers.
When we’d taken our last trip along Seneca Lake earlier in the year (which included a tour of the old Willard Asylum for the Insane), we’d stopped at Two Goats Brewing on our way to the Crooked Rooster and Wildflower Café for lunch. Two Goats had not received their state liquor license when we stopped in the spring but, since then, they’ve gotten their license and are serving their beers. The brewery/pub is an old, gorgeously renovated barn over-looking Seneca Lake from the eastern shore. Unfortunately, traveling anywhere around Seneca Lake has gotten to be a chore not for the faint-of-heart; those with families or who value their lives and sanity; or any car, limo, or bus without a pack of raging drunkards. There were a few patrons out on the balcony when we arrived and the atmosphere was relatively laid-back but that quickly changed and, the cloyingly sweet flavor of the beer just made my mood worse.
Driving along Seneca Lake used to be a nice, family trip growing up but that has changed in recent years. The popularity of the Seneca Lake Wine Trail has grown to the point where it’s nearly impossible to enjoy traveling along either Rt 96 or Rt 96A, especially on weekends. There’s a winery every five yards with cars and buses and limos pulling in and out from each side of the road and, when you do stop, the atmosphere at the wineries is no longer laid-back and relaxing. The staff at the wineries may be pleasant enough but the patrons are rude and inconsiderate, even starting fights when they get cut-off.
If you’d like to try an example of some good Seneca Lakes wines, might I suggest trying a Wagner Vineyards Riesling (for those of you who like the sweeter wines) or Zugibe Vineyard‘s 4 Freds Red (for those who prefer drier, red wines) but skip the rest of the tour. Most of the wineries (and the breweries) are over-hyped and I’d recommend heading directly to Watkins Glen (well, except on NASCAR race weekend). Finger Lakes Distilling is a nice stop but I’d suggest trying to visit during the off-season, when Seneca Lake roads aren’t so crowded.